Hello & Thank You

April 17, 20173 Comments

Many people have asked us how the language barrier impacted our ability to communicate in Southeast Asia. For the most part, it was easy to get around without knowing the native tongue. Most signs had pictures which didn’t require translations and busting out our pantomime skills helped in most other cases.

While Sean and I learned various phrases throughout our trip, knowing how to say “hello” and “thank you” was most useful.

Here are all the ‘hellos & thank yous’ we learned in Southeast Asia:

Cambodia (Khmer)

hello – jum-reap soo-a

thank you – or-koon

Malaysia (Malaysian)

hello – hello (so simple!)

thank you – terima kasih

Myanmar (Burmese)

hello – mingalaba

thank you – ché zu ba

Thailand (Thai)

hello – sawat-dee khrab (if you are male); sawat-dee kha (if you are female)

thank you – khob khun khrab (if you are male); khob khun kha (if you are female)

***Oh, and don’t forget to smile!!! 🙂

Cambodia

April 6, 2017May 15, 20173 Comments

The week and a half we spent in Cambodia was a mélange of highs and lows – from feeding elephants and exploring ruins to crying in the killing fields and puking off the back of a ferry. The best part was getting to experience it all with two of our best friends, Scott and Christina.

SIEM REAP

A trip to Southeast Asia would be incomplete without a stop in Siem Reap. With an ancient royal city and massive temple ruins, it is no wonder that Angkor is the main tourist destination in all of Cambodia.

They say you need about 2-4 days to see the temples in Siem Reap. We gave ourselves 3 full days and only spent 2 of them touring the ruins (they all start to look the same after awhile). We paid 30USD per day for a personal driver to take us from site to site.

Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world, was our first stop. Since this would be the main attraction of the day, we decided to pay for a personal tour guide – which I definitely recommend if you are not already an expert on its history. Not only was our guide passionate and informative, he also claimed to have a knack for palm reading. Apparently Sean is a controlling loner, I need freedom, Christina is ‘Trumpy’ (whatever the fuck that means), and Scott will never find someone that loves him as much as he loves them.

After a traditional Khmer lunch and a few more temples – Ta Prohm Wat being my favorite of the day – we were told to hike a mountain for a premiere sunset vantage point. Unfortunately, tons of other tourists had been given the same instructions. We decided to leave before sunset in order to avoid the mass exodus of sightseers.

By the end of day two we had seen enough temples and had our fair share of lines and crowds. As extraordinary as the Angkor is, the touristy Disney-like vibes begin to take a toll and the intense heat doesn’t help.

On our last day we opted sleep in and hit up a mini-golf park in the city, Angkor Put. It was a little difficult to find but the misters throughout the course and mini replicas of temples at each hole made the search worthwhile.

For all things shopping, food, and nightlife, Pub Street was our go to. The alleys are lined with restaurants that turn to nightclubs, street carts displaying various bugs (for consumption!), and little markets selling everything under the sun.

UPDATE: Best Regards from Far did a post on the Phare the Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap (A mind blowing blend of drama, dance, modern circus techniques and real-time painting on live music tells the true story of how art could empower a generation marked by the Khmer Rouge regime and the Cambodian genocide). I wish I had known about it while I was visiting. Check out the article HERE.

ANIMAL WILDLIFE ALLIANCE

Sean and I had originally wanted to go to an elephant sanctuary while in Thailand but the one we were most interested in was booked through the year. So when Christina told us about the Wildlife Rescue in Cambodia, we added it to the itinerary.

Not only did we get to pet and feed elephants, we also had the chance to see leopards, tigers, otters, bears, and more! The best part was going into the macaque cage and feeding a group of baby monkeys. They sat in our laps, jumped on our shoulders, and groomed our hair.

PHNOM PENH

My parents weren’t thrilled when we told them Cambodia was on our list of destinations. They always get overly worried whenever we travel and this trip was no exception. In fact, they preferred we skip the country altogether. After reading up on the crime and violence, especially in Phnom Penh, we could understand why. Luckily we were travelling in a group and we always make a point to be aware of our surroundings. We made sure to keep our belongings hidden and be back at the hostel before dark. There were definitely some sketchy characters but in the end, our time in PP turned out to be more depressing than frightening.

I knew very little about the genocide in Cambodia before our day at Killing Fields and the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21). We purchased audio tours (6USD/person) at both sites to learn about the country’s dark and not so distant past.

On April 17th, 1975 the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, marched into Phnom Penh and started a genocide that would last almost four years. Visiting these devastating mass murder and torture sites was by no means an enjoyable day but it was necessary for us to really understand the people and history. Even looking at the photos now (months later) brings tears to my eyes. How can humanity be capable of such horrific acts of violence? Millions of innocent lives lost – mothers, fathers, sons, daughters, brothers, sisters, BABIES. It breaks my heart.

Perhaps our only frightening endangerment in Phnom Penh was eating tarantula. Christina and I only tried a hairy leg while Sean and Scott ate the entire thing.

KOH RONG – THE BEGINNING OF THE END

The WORST destination of our entire trip – maybe even the worst place we’ve ever been – FOR REAL. Basically nothing more than a filthy island taken over by backpackers and European runaways. There are so few natives that you would never guess you were in an Asian country. Hostels, bars, and restaurants were run by westerners that partied harder than all of their clientele.

The bungalows we stayed in were disgusting cesspits with creaky floors and creepy bug nets. Don’t bother taking a shower in the cold, dark, spider infested bathroom. We’ve dealt with worse accommodations but this place was the most expensive hostel of our entire trip.

Only Scott escaped the island food poison free (he also only ate cheeseburgers the entire time in Cambodia).

SIHANOUKVILLE / OTRES BEACH

We were beyond spent by the time we arrived at our accommodations in Otres Beach. Christina was puking non-stop, Sean had some sort of stomach bug, I was barely keeping it together, and Scott was bummed because we were all too sick to do anything exciting.

At one point we mustered up the strength to take a dip in the perfectly tempered waters and sunbathe on the beach. Besides that, most of our time was spent in bed or hovering the toilet bowl. It was a shame because Otres Beach had the chill and relaxing vibe that we were longing for. If we had the chance to do it over, we would skip Koh Rong altogether and spend more time in Sihanoukville.

You live, you learn.

Maya Bay Birthday

February 28, 2017February 28, 20171 Comment

I try to spend my birthday out of town (and if I’m lucky, out of the country). Organizing a party brings more pain than pleasure and I prefer to avoid the stress of it all. I spent my 28th birthday in China/India and my 30th in Peru, but turning 33 in Thailand will be almost impossible to top.

After a few days in Singapore (see Singapore and More Singapore posts), we flew out to Phuket to spend my birthday island hopping with our friend, Sara.

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PATONG BEACH, PHUKET

Phuket did not impress me, mostly because the area we stayed in, Patong Beach, was a dirty, tourist-crazed, party town. Since we only had one night in Phuket, I can only speak to the small strip of beach and nightlife we experienced.

Having been away from the ocean for longer than I’m accustomed to, my first order of business was to get barefoot on the beach and test the waters. The ocean is my sacred soul place where I feel the most content and at peace. Despite the crowded beach overtaken by parasailing tourists and European bros in banana hammocks, I closed my eyes and allowed the warm seawater to reestablish my connection to nature.

Revitalized and ravished by hunger, we strolled through town in search of my favorite fare, SEAFOOD! It took a little searching, but eventually we found the alley with a bunch of restaurants (all the same same but different). Each place had at least one staff member who’s job was to lure customers in with the same catchline, “hey bro, eat here!”. We chose the place with the least presumptuous pusher. The food was fittingly underwhelming, especially in comparison to what we ate in Chiang Mai and Singapore.

With only one night in Patong, we fought the fatigue and got pumped to party. The main street leading straight to Patong Beach was reminiscent of a Bangkok Redlight District. Bar after bar serving nothing but booze and featuring shows that were “all about the pus$$y” – don’t ask, I did and was left with only more questions. We took down some shots, drank a bunch of beer, listened to live music, danced a bit, took photos with ladyboys, and topped the night off with some greasy Micky D’s. The weekend was off to a great start.

KOH PHI PHI

After one night of partying in Patong Beach, we hopped on a ferry to Koh Phi Phi, one of the major party islands of Thailand. There are no cars on the island, only hoards of young tourists drinking at all hours of the day. The beautiful beaches are littered with beer bottles and different colored straws – battle scars from endless days and nights of raging. Nonetheless, the sand is soft, the water warm, and the western food choices are plentiful.

We stayed at a hostel up in the hills, further away from the beach and the ruckus. It was a bit of a trek, there was a blood stain on the wall, and a cesspool of mosquitos in the empty reservoir outside our door, but it was worth the peaceful night of sleep.

Our day was spent on the beach, laying out, drinking beer, and eating. It was looking to be a successful relaxation day, until I made the one of the worst decisions of our entire trip – tuna pizza. I didn’t actually order the tuna pizza but I also didn’t complain when it wasn’t pepperoni. I ate the entire thing and regret it still to this day. From that point on, I was ruined. We were playing pool at an empty rock and roll bar when one of the owners opened a can of tuna for dinner. One whiff was all it took. I ran as fast as I could to the toilet and lost it. Nothing compares to the upchuck of tuna, nothing.

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I easily could have crawled back to our hostel but instead attempted to rally and headed to the beach to check out the party scene. It was still early, but we managed to catch a fire show, listen to some EDM, and watch drunk guys trying to hang from a pull-up bar for as long as they could.

MAYA BAY SLEEP ABOARD

So, here is where the weekend turned around and shit got real. Maya Bay is a short boat trip away from Phi Phi. It became a popular tourist destination after the film, The Beach (starring Leonardo DiCaprio), was released in 2000. Boatloads of tourists make the day trip for the perfect photo in paradise. Its beauty is undeniable but it is easily tarnished by the heaps of boats and people overtaking the bay. Since the island is a National Park, there are no houses, stores, or hotels and tourists must depart by sundown. Thanks to Maya Bay Sleep Aboard, we were able to experience the island in the most memorable way.

We met at the pier in the afternoon and happily departed Phi Phi. The first stop was the Phi Ley Bay for snorkeling, kayaking, and jumping off the top of the boat. The water was cool, clear and immediately healed all traces of my tuna pizza hangover.

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Eventually we arrived at Maya Bay where we took a dip in the water, did a little trekking, and waited for all of the day-trippers to leave. By sundown, our group of 17-20 people were the only ones left on the island. We enjoyed a BBQ dinner on the beach accompanied by buckets of alcohol. The Sleep Aboard staff were the lives of the party – real professional party animals. Coco Loco and Jumbo, the two main guides, initiated a game Kings Cup and forced the timid tourists out of their shells. Free shots were passed out to everyone in the group after Sean mentioned it was my birthday. We sang, drank, ate, and drank some more.

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With a decent buzz in tact, we were taken back to the main boat in the middle of the bay where we strapped on our life vests in preparation for the plankton light show. Bobbing in the middle of the pitch black ocean with a bunch of strangers brought on flashbacks of Jack and Rose after the Titanic sunk. Despite the eeriness, there was also something otherworldly about floating in the deep, dark, sea. I dunked my head underwater, swaying my arms as legs as quickly as I could, watching as the lights from the glowing plankton followed the path of my limbs. At this point, a new believer of magic, I was convinced that this birthday was as good as it gets.

I’d be lying if I said the night was all rainbows and butterflies. Our ignorant asses thought it would be a good idea to sleep on the top of the boat. Staring up at the stars as the boat rocked side to side – what could go wrong? RAIN. We got drenched and our bags with all of our clothes were out of reach, tucked in a corner surrounded by sleeping bodies. All of the geniuses that wanted to sleep under the stars huddled at the bottom of the boat while the rain poured down. Our miserable mood began to shift when a member of the boat crew pulled out an acoustic guitar and started to play. Minutes later everyone was singing in unison and passing around a bucket of alcohol. The rain eventually stopped and we headed back to our sleeping spots on the top of the boat – staring up at the stars as the boat rocked back and forth. I laid there and reflected on how lucky I was to experience such amazing adventures. It might have been the worst night of sleep EVER, but it was also a night I will always remember.

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KOH LANTA

Party islands are great if you are single and in your twenties but they will make you feel like an old fart if you are 33 and married. After 3 nights of partying on the beach and on the boat, we were all ready for some much needed R&R and Koh Lanta was exactly that.

We took a rough and rainy ferry ride from Phi Phi and stumbled to a restaurant to hydrate and search for a place to stay. We decided to shell out more money (than usual) to stay at a nice resort with clean, comfortable beds, warm water, and air conditioning.

Sara was afflicted with a stiff neck as a result of sleeping without a pillow the night before and unfortunately remained bedridden with the exception of the occasional massage. Thankfully the resort provided the comfort to recover.

Sean and I spent our last two days motorbiking up and down the coast, scoping out different beaches, sunbathing on the sand, drinking, watching the sunset, and getting massages. It was, by far, the most relaxing two days of our trip thus far. With at least two months left on our trip, we were convinced that this would not be our only visit to the island of Lanta.

Back to reality

February 28, 20171 Comment

Our trip has come to an end. We spent the last 48 hours traveling from Koh Lanta to Krabi to Bangkok to Tokyo and finally San Francisco. Cold, exhausted, and unsure of what to do next – deal with a box of unopened mail, look for jobs, sleep for days. I can’t say it is all bad though. Seeing our dogs again was a moment I’ve longed for since we left the country. I could cuddle with them watching nonsense TV and academy screeners in this California king bed forever. Unfortunately, the real world waits and my bank account dwindles.

I still have so much of our trip to blog about – Myanmar, Malaysia, the Thai Islands – and now that we are back I have nothing but time. But first things first, we must find jobs to replenish our bank accounts and support our travel addiction.

CHIIIIIIPS!

February 12, 2017Leave a comment

Chips are my go to travel snack. I love trying the different flavors wherever we go. Here are some of the interesting munchies from our trip around Southeast Asia.

Basically cheddar bugles, but not as good.

Sean’s favorite chips of the trip – Crab Claws.

These were super spicy in the BEST way.

Little chicken drumsticks. Didn’t taste like chicken though.

Pringles makes Corn Chips and they are on another level!

Nothing to rave about…but they would probably be good with dip.

My favorite chips were in Cambodia but I devoured them so quickly and didn’t get a chance to snap a picture (fat girl problems). I wish I knew what they were called!!!

Myanmar also had amazing homemade chips that were sold on the side of the road. They made the 5-10 hour bus trips bearable. I still dream about them sometimes…

Throwback Thursday: INDIA 2011

February 9, 2017May 24, 20175 Comments

Let’s go back, way back, to India 2011.

It was the first big vacation that Sean and I took together and it conditioned us for all the countries we have visited since. Our first time in a third world country – brushing our teeth with bottled water, getting groped on the train, falling victim to an elaborate scam, but at the same time falling in love with the culture, the color, the beauty.

Click HERE to view our India photo gallery.

Myanmar

January 14, 2017January 14, 20177 Comments

Myanmar was, without a doubt, our favorite destination. I have tons of blogging to catch up on and so much to say about this wondrous country.

In the meantime, check out the video Sean made:

MINGALABA

More Singapore

December 30, 2016December 29, 20161 Comment

MARINA BAY SANDS RESORT

A state of the art luxury resort with four main attractions – The Marina Bay Sands Hotel, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay, and the Art Science Museum.

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The hotel is topped by a huge SkyPark which rests on the three, 55 story towers. We checked out the lobby area of the hotel but didn’t get to see much more. You must be a guest to get up to the Sands SkyPark and swim in their famous infinity pool. There is an observation deck for non-guests but we decided against it since the price was too steep ($22 Singaporean Dollars per person).

The shopping center is reminiscent of a ritzy Vegas hotel with high-end stores, five star restaurants, a movie theatre, ice skating rink, and even a casino. In order to save money, we stuck to window shopping and dining at the foodcourt.

Most of our time was spent in the gardens and at the museum.

GARDENS BY THE BAY

This magnificently vast, out of this world garden comprises every shade of green with vibrant pops of rainbow colors. We spent an entire day getting lost in the surreal oasis. From the giant trees made of steel to the massive glass domes, we were taken away to another world, a place we had only ever seen in sci-fi flicks.

OCBC SKYWAY/SUPERTREE GROVE

Each Supertree in the grove is made up of a concrete core surrounded by a steel frame draped in a variety of plants and topped with an inverted umbrella canopy in the shape of branches. There are 11 in total, all embedded with an environmentally sustainable function. Some harvest solar energy while others serve as air exhaust receptacles. Genuine trees of the future.

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Suspended within the Supertree Grove, 72 feet above the ground, is the OCBC Skyway. Getting up to the Skyway proved to be a daunting task. For good reason, the bridge would close at the onset of dark clouds or the sound of thunder. We tried twice in one day, but the fickle Singapore weather denied us the opportunity. Finally, on our last day in Singapore, we succeeded.

When we reached the Skyway, I wasn’t expecting my fear of heights to set in so dramatically. From below, the bridge seemed sturdy and safe. But looks are decieving and the view from the top produced anxiety and sweaty palms. I held tight to the rails, carefully putting one foot in front of the other, and tried my best not to look down when the bridge slightly shook.

There is a Garden Rhapsody show that takes place a couple times each evening in the Supertree Grove. We decided to check it out (especially because it was free). In the spirit of the holidays, the tree lights sparkled and moved to the sounds of yuletide symphonies and Christmas classics (including Mariah’s All I Want For Christmas Is You).

FLOWER DOME

There are two, gigantic domes within Gardens by the Bay. $28 Singaporean Dollars buys you entry into both.

We began with the largest glass greenhouse in the world – the Flower Dome, coined as the world of perpetual spring, where unique plants grow. The cost of entry was well worth the cool 75 degree temperatures inside. The stunning array of flowers and plants transported us to a world of childhood fairytales. We leisurely lingered around the variety of plants enjoying our escape from the draining Singapore heat.

CLOUD FOREST DOME

Of the two domes, this was by far my favorite. A futuristic jungle with cascading waterfalls, secret gardens, crystal mountains, and a walkway through the clouds. The interactive video playing at the bottom floor described the effects of temperature increase and climate change around the planet. By the end of our trek through the Cloud Forest we were both brought to tears and inspired by the possibilities that the future holds.

ART SCIENCE MUSEUM

The Art Science Museum, known as the Welcoming Hand of Singapore, is a giant lotus flower building that sits on the bayfront of the Marina Bay Sands resort area.

There were a few of exhibits to choose from but we decided on FUTURE WORLDS: WHERE ART MEETS SCIENCE, an interactive collection of installations displaying a range of digital technology. There was a nature room with flora and fauna projected on the walls, a park with giant bouncy balls spread throughout that changed color by touch, and a space room with beads of large, sparkling crystals that dangled from the ceiling. The exhibit was geared more toward children, but Sean and I still loved it.

ORCHARD ROAD

Shop ’til you drop on this road full of fancy stores, bright lights and fat wallets. We arrived in Singapore in the middle of November but Christmas was already in full swing. Nothing I’ve seen in the States could compare with the holiday decor on Orchard Road. Sean and I were too overwhelmed, overawed, and overstimulated to handle more than a quick stroll through the Santa overkill. We witnessed enough Christmas cheer in one hour to last us through the rest of the year — and it wasn’t even Thanksgiving yet. Unfortunately we were too in shock to take any photos. If I’d known that Christmas in Thailand would be so ho-hum, I would have welcomed, appreciated, and savored the holiday spirit of Singapore a lot more.

MERLION

Last but not least, the true gem and people-watching mecca of Singapore, the Merlion – a statue, half lion/half mermaid, resting atop concrete waves, spouting water from its majestic mouth. I had found my true spirit animal!

We blissfully watched, trying not to laugh out loud, as tourists attempted (over and over again) to take forced perspective photos of the Merlion spewing water into their cupped hands or open mouths.

Sean and I obviously had to partake in the hoopla.

I loved the Merlion so much that I couldn’t bare to leave Singapore without one of my very own:

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Singapore

December 29, 2016December 28, 20161 Comment

The land of luxury, city of the future, and home to the Merlion (my new favorite animal hybrid) – Singapore. We spent more money here in 3 days (being frugal) than two full weeks in Thailand, but it was totally worth it.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Fortunately, we were able to save quite a bit by staying with our friend, Tamy, in her posh high-rise apartment. Without free lodging, our trip expenses would have doubled. She also served as our personal expert and ‘Trip Advisor’ to everything Singapore.

Special thanks to Tamy for letting us crash at her pad, taking us out, and showing us a fabulous time. We miss you already!!!

GETTING AROUND

I loved the Singapore MRT (Mass Rapid Transit)! It was so easy to get anywhere in the city riding their clean (and air-conditioned trains). Rideshare apps, Uber and Grab, were super cheap and easy to use when we didn’t feel like walking to the MRT station in the humid, midday heat. Taxis are also an option if you don’t mind paying a little more. Apparently it is extremely expensive to buy and own a car in Singapore. This forces most people to take public transportation and leaves the roads traffic free.

FOOD

Hainanese chicken rice is the Singaporean specialty. We had seen the dish served throughout Thailand but never were tempted enough to order it. It seemed necessary to finally try the boiled chicken and broth rice in the place where it was invented and made famous.

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The chicken rice at Boon Tong Kee tasted like it looked – bleh. Everyone around us had ordered the same dish and seemed to enjoy it immensely. We didn’t really get the appeal. The chicken was served cold and the rice wasn’t anything special. I’d be willing (but not enthusiastic) to try it again. On the other hand, the crispy beancurd and all of their in-house sauces were incredible.

Singapore is home to many high-end restaurants. Famous celebrity chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, Mario Batali, and Wolfgang Puck all have high class eateries at the Marina Bay Sands. Since we were traveling on a budget, we opted for cheap eats instead.

The mall food-courts became our goto for most every meal and they did not disappoint. There was a wide selection of cuisines from around the world at reasonable prices.

My most notable meal was the chili crab and Satay by the Bay. Spicy, messy goodness.

DRINKS

Getting drunk in Singapore was impossible. While there were bars everywhere around the city, the drinks were extremely expensive (especially when coming from Chiang Mai where you can get a beer for $1-2USD or a gin and tonic for $2-3USD). On our first night out we spent about $75USD on THREE drinks. Granted I had an insanely good Bloody Mary topped with tiny pickles and baked beans, it was definitely not worth the price.

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When we tried to be thrifty by purchasing a “pre-party” bottle of wine at the gas station, we were turned down because their liquor law prohibits shops from selling booze after 10:30pm.

On the upside, the bars were swanky and we were in good company so a buzz was not necessary to have a delightful evening.

SITES

Singapore is unlike anyplace we’ve ever been. Stand almost anywhere, take a look around, and you will be transported to a place of futuristic beauty – clean streets featuring hip restaurants and bars, unique skyscrapers garnished here and there with abundant gardens, and water shows displaying light projections and floating bubbles.

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Orchard Road, Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay, the Cloud Dome, Flower Dome, Merlion, and Art Science Museum – we covered quite a bit in 3 days. I’ll be writing another post on our adventures in the Lion City.

Officially #blessed

December 28, 2016December 28, 20162 Comments

Sean and I always discussed getting tattoos in the countries we visited but never knew what to get (or mustered up the courage to go through with it)…until now.

Sak Yant (also called Sak Yan, or Yantra) is a form of tattooing that originated from ancient Thai peoples. Sak means to ‘jab’ and Yant or Yantra means ‘Blessed Tattoo’. The inscriptions are made up of ancient geometric designs mixed with Buddhist prayers and are believed to bring its bearer magic powers of luck, strength, healing, and protection against evil.

Sak Yants are customarily administered by a Thai Monk, but because Monks are not allowed to touch women, we had our tattoos done by an Ajarn, or master whom has studied the art of Sak Yant and is believed to be able to ink and bless the tattoos.

We were more excited about the spiritual experience than the tattoo itself. With each jab of the steel needle, we focused on being present in the pain, concentrating on the powers we desired our sacred blessing to bring. It took about 45minutes to an hour to finish each tattoo. Once completed, Ajarn Amnat recited a chant (or kata) and softly blew on our designs to activate the magic within the Sak Yant.

This is, by far, the best memento I’ve obtained throughout all of our travels around the world. May its magic bring us strength, protection, and virtue as we continue on our journey.

EFFIT, LET'S GO

travel like there's no tomorrow

Category: Travel